Pray for Me in Santiago: Walking The Ancient Pilgrim Road to by Theresa Burkhardt-Felder

By Theresa Burkhardt-Felder

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Extra resources for Pray for Me in Santiago: Walking The Ancient Pilgrim Road to Santiago De Compostela

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74 San Millán de la Cogolla claims to be the cradle of the Spanish language because it is there that a monk wrote for the first time in a Latin dialect that became Castellano, which is what the Spanish language is called in Spain. There are two monasteries in San Millán: the monastery of Suso is up on the hill, and the monastery of Yuso is down in the valley. Suso was consecrated in 984 and inhabited by Mozarabic monks. Unfortunately, it was closed to the public when we were there due to urgent restoration works, so that we could only dream of the beauty for which its Visigothic and Mozarabic origins are renowned.

This tradition goes back to a miracle that occurred in the Middle Ages when a German pilgrim family — parents and their son, Hugonell — passed through town. The innkeeper’s 90 daughter took a fancy to the young man and fell in love with him. Unfortunately for her, the young man did not respond to her advances and she plotted revenge. While the pilgrims slept, she put a silver goblet in his bread-bag and, in the morning, accused him of being a thief. Punishment was draconian in those days and Hugonell was sentenced to death by hanging.

A tanned, distinguishedlooking man in his fifties is already in bed at the bottom, wrapped in a white sleeping bag. He looks annoyed. ‘Perdone la molestia,’ we mumble apologetically and try to find a place for our backpacks on the floor. Two rooms, two showers, two toilets, sixteen people. Gérard and I look at each other helplessly, and decide not to have showers. Where have we landed? Why did we not stay at the spacious albergue in Nájera where our Brazilian friend was going to stage a singing party tonight?

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